April Update : some pictures and random notes - By Dick Robertson I’ve had a lot of visitors for the last month and have been making only very slow progress. As you can see from the pictures, I’ve accomplished the following: Put on the bottom — 2 layers of AC exterior ply with the bad sides hidden between the laminations. Put on the sides and trimmed them flush with the bottom. I used 3/8 inch marine ply on the sides. The slight curve to the sides at the bow (frame 1) necessitated these be cut in the center for about the first 18" of their length . See the stem photo. Laminated on the outer stem. Put fiberglass tape on critical areas; the chines, centerboard slot, centerline from bow to centerboard slot and the stem/bow. Started building the rudder.   The Bottom: The double curve on the bottom required the plywood be cut in 24" pieces that run perpendicular to the centerline chine to chine. The width of 24 inches was just a guess and, I believe, it is about the max that can be used. Their _ inch thickness allows them to be forced into a double curve. The outer layer is the same only offset 12" so they overlay the seams in the first layer. The result is a very strong structure with a good smooth curve in both directions. I needed many screws to hold them in place and force the bulges out until the epoxy dried. I then removed all the screws. Note on epoxy/ply construction: Once the epoxy has set, metal fasteners are redundant I remove them all. This allows working on the hull with sharp tools without the danger of hitting a screw. It also allows the holes to be filled easier. Be sure and clear the screw heads of epoxy before it dries or you won’t be able to get the screw out. Hubris: The hull as constructed is very stiff and strong, perhaps one of the strongest Comets pound for pound ever built. It is also totally waterproof and will stay that way (unless I screwed up in some way). Boat building tools — Nothing very exotic is required but here’s what I use and why: Note — optional vs. required is a subjective judgment and is oriented toward plywood epoxy construction. 10 inch table saw (required) for accurate ripping of long pieces of wood e.g. sheer & chine strips, ply bottom laminations Router (optional) for centerboard slot, edge trimming Orbital action hand jig saw (required) for everything. I have a Bosch, an excellent tool that will last a lifetime, well worth the higher cost. The orbital action is essential. Cordless drill/driver with torque clutch and two battery packs (required). I have a DeWalt. This tool is absolutely essential since this type of construction uses hundreds of screws for clamping until the epoxy dries. I then remove them all. A bit for the drill/driver which flips between a screw pilot drill and Philips screw driver. This is great! It eliminates the need for two drills one of which is never where you need it. Many clamps The biggest meanest wood rasp you can find. For epoxy: Disposable rubber gloves Cheap paint brushes - I cut the bristles in half so they are stiff enough. A sharp chisel is good for cutting them. Use once then throw away. Plastic cups for mixing — don’t use waxed paper cups White vinegar for cleaning hands and tools. Don’t use epoxy thinner since it supposedly carries epoxy into the skin. Two very sharp planes — a block plane and a smoothing plane (required). I’m not very good at sharpening so I got some Japanese water stones and a sharpening guide. This allows me to get a pretty good edge on my planes and chisels. They say that to be sharp the edge must have a mirror finish. I didn’t believe this until I got these stones with a 6000 grit polishing stone. It’s true. A random orbital sander (required). A good compromise between aggression and smooth finish. Costs: As of April 9, 2002 4 sheets _ AC exterior ply @ 17.00 each - total 68.00 — Bottom 1 sheet 3/8 AC ext ply @ 20.00 - Frames 1 sheet _ marine ply @ 40.00 — Frames 2 sheet 3/8 marine ply @45.00 — total 90.00 - Sides 2 gallons West Epoxy Resin and hardener @ 75.00/set - total 150.00 West fillers to mix with epoxy — Approx 40.00 Misc pieces of wood, screws, fiberglass, etc. Approx 100.00 Rudder, sheer clamp, chine Used sails / mast fittings — 400.00 Cost notes — I made the building frame out of scrap but it would have probably cost about 50.00 End of entry. Back